I spent almost the entire month of January 2024 traveling around Cambodia, visiting famous sites as well as hidden gems. I found several of those gems in the northeast, where the Mekong River flows south from Laos towards Phnom Penh. Kratié and Stung Treng provinces are beautiful, remote, and underdeveloped. They also have massive yet largely untapped potential for sustainable ecotourism.
I visited the area with a small group on a trip run by Intrepid Travel. This was my first time visiting Asia, so starting out by traveling in a small group with a knowledgeable guide was a great way to settle in and get the ‘lay of the land’ before setting off independently. It was also my first trip with Intrepid, and I was quite impressed. I still tend to prefer independent travel over group tours, but for certain destinations (or if you simply DO like to travel in a small group) Intrepid is a great way to go.
So, let’s check out this under-visited ‘hidden’ corner of Cambodia and the adventures in store for you along the mighty Mekong River!
Kratié province
Kratié is located about 5 hours’ drive northeast of Phnom Penh. It’s known for the critically endangered Irrawaddy dolphins, whose population has sadly been reduced to less than 100 in Cambodia due (primarily) to upstream damming of the Mekong and harmful fishing practices…think explosives. 😳 They used to live all along the river but now only inhabit a small area, a pattern which repeats throughout southeast Asia.
From the town of Kampi you can take a boat – or a kayak – out into the river to observe the dolphins. They are a bit shy compared to some other species of dolphin, and they don’t like the noise of boat engines (would you?) so if you’re able I’d really recommend the kayak option. A boat was already pre-arranged for our group but I’d have chosen the kayak if I could’ve done so! I will say, however, that the local captains did generally turn off their engines and allow the boats to drift quietly when the dolphins were close by. Unlike the pink Amazon dolphins, these were far easier to capture in photos/videos! The best time of year for spotting the dolphins is the dry season, from November to May, and the boats can be found at the waterfront location called ‘Mekong Dolphin Pleasance’.
Another great experience in Kratié was an overnight visit to Koh Trong (also written as Kaoh Trong) Island with a homestay. It’s a short ferry ride from Kratié town, and the ferry runs back and forth all day so getting on and off the island is super easy. Here you’ll get a feel for authentic everyday life in the countryside, while taking in some breathtaking views of the sunset over the Mekong…there are even beaches! It was an enjoyable and somewhat unexpected escape to ‘island time’ in the middle of the Mekong.
There is a hotel on the island if you’re keen for the creature comforts, but I’d really recommend a homestay as it does a lot more to benefit the local community and your experience will be far more authentic. We stayed in a simple but comfortable group accommodation, but some homestays also offer individual rooms. There’s no need to book in advance, just inquire at the community-run ecotourism counter after getting off the ferry. This is the same place where you can rent bicycles to get around (there are no cars on the island, only bicycles, tuk-tuks and mopeds). It was great fun riding through tiny villages, dodging road-crossing chickens and waving to children keen to greet you with a sweet ‘hello!’ as you ride by. The island isn’t hilly and the main streets are mostly paved, so no special skills or high fitness level is required.
There are little food and drink stands all around, and my secret tip: the Koh Trong Café at Homestay #4 on the island’s west coast has fantastic sunset views from its beautiful terrace overlooking the river! I mean, just have a look below and tell me that’s not a gorgeous scene!
Stung Treng province
To the north of Kratié is Stung Treng province, which borders Laos. Getting there involves a drive over sometimes okay, other times very dusty (in dry season) and bumpy roads. I highly recommend some good butt cushioning while driving in this part of the country, especially if you’re in the back seat like I was! 😂 The province is also a great stopover for a few days if you’re traveling overland between Cambodia and Laos.
We stayed in the main settlement of Stung Treng, and our hotel (Four Rivers) was clean and comfortable with some great views of the river from the balcony. If their rooftop ‘Sky Bar’ reopens (it shut down with the pandemic) it will be an added plus. Stung Treng is an interesting small city with a laid-back and pleasant feel. Do realize that it doesn’t get a lot of western tourists, however, so you’ll enjoy it more if you’re prepared to ‘go local’. And given how close this is to the border with Laos, this is one of the best places in Cambodia to try out some Lao cuisine! We also went to a Phở (Vietnamese noodle soup) restaurant called SaiGon for dinner one evening, which I can also recommend. It was simple and cheap, but tasty!
The Mekong itself is the main attraction, and there are some gorgeous waterfalls along the border, called Preah Nimith/Sopheakmit. This region is often referred to as the ‘4000 islands’ and people generally associate it only with Laos…BUT, those islands run right along the border with Cambodia, and this is a great place to explore it! You can reach the falls by road from Stung Treng in a little over an hour, but we made a full day out of it, starting with a bumpy bus ride up to the Laos border (butt cushions!!). From there boats took us up and across the river (a fun ride!) followed by a short jungle hike to reach the falls.
Next, the boats took us for a fabulous lunch at a restaurant called Alunvanmai (which is actually in Laos!), then back to our vehicle where we changed clothes and paddled kayaks down the Mekong, through a flooded forest. I’ve paddled through mangrove forests before, but this was an altogether different experience…very cool and so beautiful! Finally, a refreshing swim in the Mekong to top off a great day! This was one day where I was thankful to be traveling with a guide, because even though I consider myself a great travel planner I just don’t think I’d have managed to put together this day on my own. I’ve gotta admit, group travel does have its advantages!
One thing to note about the ‘flooded’ forest: remember, this was recorded during the dry season! In the height of the rainy season those really cool-looking tree roots you see in the video are completely submerged in water! I enjoyed being there in the dry season because the river was a lovely shade of blue-green (it turns more brownish when the rains come), but the power of the river during rainy season must be a quite sight to behold. That said, you’d probably have to be quite skilled at whitewater kayaking to do this excursion – I was happy to simply enjoy the beautiful scenery with an easy paddle!
Want to read more about Cambodia’s hidden gems? Stay tuned for more to come, but in the meantime check out my article about gorgeous Sunset Beach on the little island of Koh Rong Sanloem!